Good to know – Your first trip to Nepal

Swayambhunath stupa in Kathmandu

Here is my little guide on what to know before travelling for the first time to Nepal, the country with the world’s highest mountains and the birthplace of Buddha. I will share my experiences with you, provide tips on trekking and transportation, highlight common mistakes to avoid, and suggest dishes to try out.

Facts – A country full of opposites

Population: 30 million
Capital: Kathmandu
Currency: Nepalese rupee (NPR)
1 EUR is 145.20 NPR
1 US$ is 133.01 NPR

Nepal is the home of eight of the fourteen world’s highest peaks with a height above 8,000 m (26,246 feet), along with the highest mountain of the world: Mount Everest. According to the Nepalese embassy, the Upper Himalaya occupies 15 % of the total area of the country; the middle hills and Lower Himalaya cover even 68 %. The landscape is really diverse, and offers not only the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayas but also national parks in the Terai region with a lowest altitude of 70 m (229 ft) above sea level in the South of the county. These national parks are home for endangered animals like the Royal Bengal tiger, the One-horned rhinoceros and Gangetic dolphins.

Nepal is a rather small country especially compared to its neighbours India and China. Nepal’s size of 147,181 km² (56,826 mi²) can be compared with countries like Bangladesh (148,460 km²; 56,977 mi²) and Tajikistan (143,099 km²; 55,100 mi²) or the US state of Iowa (145,746 km²; 56,272 mi²). The main religions are Hinduism and Buddhism. Nepal is known as the birthplace of Buddha.

Safety – Listen to your instincts

I have to say that I felt totally save walking through Kathmandu and Pokhara, also at night on busy streets. There was not a moment I felt worried or afraid, and I also did not see anyone who would try to harm me in any way. Of course, you should always listen to your gut feeling and instincts. Stay in busy streets at night, and if you feel unsafe take an official taxi home.  

Trekking – One of the top activities in Nepal

One of the top activities when visiting Nepal is trekking in the Himalayan Mountains. Since April 2023, it has been obligatory to arrange for a guide to accompany you on your hike. You can easily organise your tour through one of the many tourist companies and find someone who speaks English or even another foreign language. Your company and guide can also assist you in finding a trek that suits your fitness level and recommend guest houses for lunch breaks and overnight stays.

You can also arrange a Sherpa for your trekking. Sherpas will be paid to carry your backpack for you. Our Sherpa even cooked for us. We had three meals a day plus tea breaks. We were a group of five people accompanied by a first guide, a second guide and two Sherpas carrying our luggage.  

Extra tip and no health insurance benefits

It is common to give your guide and Sherpa an extra tip on top of their payment. The amount of the tip depends on the size of your group and the status of the guide. Typically, guides will receive a larger tip than Sherpas. We also had to research the appropriate amount of tip, but decided to give the guides around 8 EUR (approx. 9 USD) per day per person and the Sherpas 4 EUR (approx. 4.50 USD) per day per person. It is also important to emphasize that there are no health insurance benefits for locals in Nepal. Therefore, guides and Sherpas have to pay their medical bills themselves. Earning more money through tips can help them save to cover their higher risk of illness.  

Bring enough cash with you because there will be no chance to withdraw money in the mountains. Some people also accept Euros or US Dollars but will charge you significantly more than in the local currency.  

Rent your trekking clothes

There are many shops in cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara where you can buy or rent various types of trekking clothes and gear, such as suitable jackets, backpacks or sleeping bags. Our guides provided us with sleeping bags rated for -20 degrees because most houses in Nepal do not have heaters, so it can get very cold at night.

Beware of altitude sickness

One of the primary concerns for hikers is altitude sickness, which can be extremely dangerous. Altitude sickness occurs when ascending too rapidly, causing the body to not have enough time to adjust to the reduced oxygen and air pressure. This can result in symptoms such as headaches, fatigue, dizziness, loss of appetite, and swelling of the hands, feet, and face. In severe cases, it can lead to pain, nausea, and vomiting, and if left untreated, it can even cause death.

Therefore, it is crucial to listen to your body and take steps to prevent altitude sickness. While I am neither a doctor nor a hiking expert, here are some tips I learned in Nepal: It is important to ascend slowly, typically not gaining more than 500 m (1,640 ft) in altitude per day. Additionally, it is advisable to should also descend or stay at the same altitude every 3 to 4 days once you reach 3,000 m (9,842 ft) or above. You should also increase your water intake. It is best to consult with your doctor beforehand, especially if you are not used to high altitudes and plan on ascending above 2,500 m (8,202 ft).

Transportation – Very slow and quite bumpy

There are several local buses you can use for travelling within the cities or for overland journeys. Just be aware that the ‘highway’ is currently not paved, so overland travel is slow and quite bumpy due to poor road conditions. A drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara takes approximately 6-8 hours for a distance of 201 km (125 mi). However, when we visited Nepal in January 2024, the country was already working diligently on the development of the roads. Until then, booking a flight can also be an alternative. Flights are relatively expensive but will save you a significant amount of time. We paid 120 EUR (approx. 130 USD) for a one-way flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu.

Food – veggie and spicy

To me, Nepal was heaven on earth because it offers a lot of vegetarian dishes. Nepalese people usually eat very spicy, so I must warn you not to ignore the spiciness level on the menu and to ask for less spicy food, at least if you are not used to it. Ordering a Lassi can be a perfect choice, not only saving your mouth from burning caused by too many chillies in your food, but it is also a local drink from Nepal (and India). Lassi is a yoghurt drink that can be enjoyed plain or with different flavours such as vanilla, mango or chocolate. It tastes similar to a milkshake and is super delicious.

Dal Bhat

Nepalese cuisine is influenced by its neighbouring regions of Tibet and India. The most common dish is Dal Bhat (Nepali: दालभात). It consists of rice, lentils (also in the form of soup), various curries, and vegetables such as onion, garlic, ginger, chilli, tomatoes, beans, or tamarind. The variety of vegetables also depends on the seasonal availability and the region. Another popular Nepalese dish is Momos, dumplings filled with vegetables or meat.

By the way, cows are considered holy and therefore, protected animals in Nepal. Consequently, you will not find any beef on the menu because killing cows is punishable by law. 

Water – Why you should only eat peelable fruits

Tap water should not be consumed by people who are not accustomed to the local bacteria in the water. To be safe, you should buy bottled water and avoid drinks made with ice cubes. Also, be cautious with fruits washed with tap water and cold dishes like salads. If you want to be on the safe side, you should prefer eating fruits that you have to peel before eating, such as bananas and oranges, and only consume cooked dishes where the bacteria get killed in the process. I also read that it is advisable to avoid eating fish and meat.

Nepalese Calendar – Welcome to year 2080

In Nepal, people use two different kinds of calendars: Nepal Sambat as the ceremonial calendar, and Vikram Samvat as the official calendar. However, Nepalese are also familiar with “our” calendar, the Gregorian one.

Nepal Sambat is a lunar calendar based on the monthly cycles of the Moon’s phases. This calendar is mainly used by the Newar people in Nepal for celebrating festivals and observation rituals.

Vikram Samvat is a solar calendar and is around 56 (from January-April) to 57 (from May-December) years ahead of the Gregorian calendar, depending on the month. Therefore, while it is the year 2024 in the Gregorian calendar, it is the year 2080 in Vikram Samvat. The calendar is also used in the Indian subcontinent. 

Weather – Different temperatures and no heaters

Nepal has huge significant temperature variations depending on altitude and between day and night. Therefore, you should be prepared for all kinds of weather and dress in layers.

In general, the best time to travel is from the end of September to May. However, it also depends a bit on what activities you plan to do and where you intend to go.

Be aware that most Nepalese houses do not have heaters but only a fireplace in the central area of the house (typically the living room). Additionally, access to hot water may not be guaranteed. Usually, thick blankets are provided in every accommodation, including guesthouses in the mountains. We also rented extra sleeping bags beforehand because nights can get extremely cold, sometimes requiring sleeping with a hat and scarf. If you freeze easily, I would recommend bringing a hot water bottle to Nepal. Most “better” hotels provide a kettle in their rooms, and it shouldn’t be a problem to ask for hot water in a guesthouse as well.

Fun facts – Parties, tip, and bargain

In Nepal, working and school are from Sunday to Friday, with only Saturday as a day off. Therefore, the best day to go out at night is Friday when bars and clubs are filled with people.

Usually, you will not be expected to tip in Nepal. However, especially in tourist areas, people are more used to receiving tips anyway. So, consider giving a small tip to your driver, hotel staff, and restaurant servers. People will not expect it, but they will appreciate it. An exception is tipping your guides and sherpas, which is entirely customary (see the section on trekking).

While stores and supermarkets have fixed prices, it is common to bargain at markets, such as the tourist shops in Kathmandu. Our guide informed us that prices can be up to double what the products would usually cost on the street.

In larger cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara, as well as in tourist areas, there are more and more shops, restaurants and accommodations where it is possible to pay by credit card. Nonetheless, it’s always advisable to bring some cash in the local currency Nepalese Rupees (NPR) with you. You can easily withdraw money from ATMs in the cities or exchange your currency to NPR at official exchange points. However, be aware that it may become increasingly difficult or even impossible to exchange or withdraw money in rural areas and mountainous regions.

Have you visited Nepal before? Share your tips in the comments below.

You have read the blog post Good to know – Your first trip to Nepal on My Travel Journal-Blog.

What to do in Edinburgh

Edinburgh

Edinburgh Castle, Arthur’s Seat and Grassmarket – Here is your bucket list for Edinburgh.

Castle Edinburgh

Scotland is one of my favourite countries to travel to and Edinburgh should be definitely on your bucket list for its beautiful architecture and history.

Best of Edinburgh

Edinburgh was one of my favourite places to visit and here is why:

📍 Edinburgh Castle:

Of course, visiting the beautiful castle is a must. It also offers a nice viewpoint over Edinburgh. From Monday to Saturday, you can hear the one o’clock gun – a time signal that was established in 1861. The entrance fee is £19.50 for one adult.

📍 Royal Mile:

The Royal Mile is a famous street full of historic and cultural attractions that stretches from Edinburgh Castle to the Holyrood Palace.

📍 Holyrood Palace:

You can find the Holyrood Palace, also called the Palace of Holyroodhouse, at the end of the Royal Mile. It is the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. Nowadays, you can visit the castle and the gardens, the entrance fee is £18.00 for one adult or £11.50 for young persons from 18-24 years.

📍 Arthur's Seat:

If you are up for a hike, then you should head to Arthur’s seat. The ancient volcano is with 251m (823ft) the highest point of Edinburgh and allows you a panoramic view over the city. It is located at Holyrood Park, close to the city centre.

📍 Calton Hill:

This is another place for a fantastic panoramic view you should not miss. Additionally, Calton Hill also offers several monuments like the National Monument.

📍 Grassmarket:

Nowadays, it’s a historical marketplace full of restaurants, pubs, and cute little shops. The place was used for public executions until the 18th century, which makes the pub ‘The last drop’ a bit of a morbid name choice. Another pub is named after Maggie Dickson, who survived her execution and after was allowed to live on because her survival was understood as God’s will.

📍 Dean Village:

Also worth a visit is the nearby Dean Village, which offers architecture and gardens from the 19th century in a really scenic surrounding.

About Whiskey, the worst poet and unicorns

Besides:

🥃 Scotland is famous for its Whiskey, so don’t miss to give it a try if you are into alcoholic beverages.

🖋️ The Scottish poet William McGonagall born in Edinburgh is known as the worst poet of all time. You can visit his grave at the cemetery of Grayfriars.
And that the name of the poet reminds you of Harry Potter is also no coincidence. The character of Minerva McGonagall was named after him.

🦄 One more funfact: Did you know that the national animal of Scotland is a unicorn? Apparently, the Scots didn’t know that the unicorn is a mythical creature when they chose it. My tour guide told me that the unicorn has two enemies: elephants (but no one knows why) and the lion (because of England).

Festivities in 2024:

🎆 Edinburgh’s Hogmanay (29.12.23-01.01.2024)

🧪 Edinburgh Science Festival (30.03.-14.04.24)

👶🏻 Edinburgh International Children’s Festival (25.05.-02.06.24)

🎷 Edinburgh Jazz & Blues Festival (12.07.-21.07.24)

👑 The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo (02.08.-24.08.24)

🔥 Edinburgh Festival Fringe (02.08.-26.08.24)

🎶 Edinburgh International Festival (02.08.-25.08.24)

🎨 Edinburgh Art Festival (09.08.-25.08.24)

📚 Edinburgh International Book Festival (10.08.-26.08.24)

You have read the blog post My favourites of Edinburgh on My Travel Journal-Blog.

5 tips to avoid crowded places

At Eibsee

No one likes having too many people around while travelling. Here are some easy tips on how to avoid crowds.

Obersee

Here are 5 tips for you on how to avoid crowds while travelling:

Come during the Off-Peak Hours:

Visit tourist spots either way early in the morning or in the late evening because this is the time when the places are usually way less crowded. Also, starting your day early can help and maybe enjoy a sunset in an otherwise way more crowded place.

Travel in shoulder season:

Or in other words, avoid the high season of your dream destination. Therefore, you will not only have fewer people around but can also save some money since the prices for activities and accommodation are usually lower.

Avoid public holidays and school vacations:

Most families travel in the summer season because usually, this is the time when their kids have the most extended holidays. So if your dream destination is really popular with families you can maybe visit it in autumn or spring instead. But also general public holidays (for example Christmas) and the weekends around it can attract more tourists since people try to extend their vacation by taking the days off in between.

A woman infront of Neuschwanstein Castle
Learn from Google:

Google offers a feature that shows you for a lot of places the busiest times of the day. Consider also weekdays versus the weekend since a lot of people have free time on the weekend, so popular spots will also be way more crowded then.

Talk to locals:

This may seem obvious, but try to choose a less known place. Ask a local, for example, someone who works at your accommodation, the waiter of the restaurant, you have dinner or the bartender, if they can give you a tip on what to visit instead. Touristic places are usually not that popular with locals, and they have their own sites to go where it is less crowded. I met a lot of locals who were super happy about people being interested in their country and culture – and were therefore super open to giving me tips on where to go. And who knows, maybe you can even find a hidden gem.

You have read the blog post 5 tips to avoid crowded places on My Travel Journal-Blog.

12 Mistakes you should avoid in Iceland

Landmannalaugar

Here are 12 mistakes you should avoid – I would have wanted to know before I went to Iceland myself. I share all my tips with you on how to prepare for Iceland and save some money according to your budget. Iceland is super expensive but in my opinion, it is totally worth it – you will collect beautiful memories for life.

Iceland is one of the most expensive countries in the world – so it is even more important to plan a bit ahead and calculate with your budget, to avoid these common mistakes. Or in other ways here is a guide on how to plan your Iceland trip:

Number One: Book in advance

This is a really basic rule for travelling: Book in advance. But I can tell it is especially important for Iceland – whether we’re talking car rentals or accommodations. Keep in mind that Iceland is really expensive for most people and the rule of first come first serve also applies here.

Do I need a car?

In combination with number one, I also want to answer the question of whether or not you need a car. I am a huge fan of travelling by public transport but this time I am afraid the answer is yes. There are a lot of beautiful places in Iceland which are only reachable by car. In addition, public transport is quite expensive compared to other countries I’ve been to, for example, the 188 km from Reykjavik to Vík í Mýdral costs 7,980 kr (approximately 54 € or 57 US$) one way with Strætó.

Another way is to bring your own car by ferry to Iceland. The Ring Road is also cleared in winter and remains passable. Other places in Iceland like the Westfjords or the inner part of Iceland like Landmannalaugar will require better cars (and summer).

❗️Tip: If you can’t or don’t want to drive you can also book plenty of different day tours from Reykjavik or even book a group tour for several days right from the beginning. I did a combination of both.

Number two: Take the cheap flight

Most cheap flights arrive late or go early in the morning. If you can find a good deal at weird times – take it. Unfortunately, public transport is only running from 6:30 am till 11 pm so you may be too early or late to catch the public bus (excuse for number three). But there are shuttle busses leaving after every flight from the airport plus bringing you also to the airport for early flights – so you won’t need a taxi.

Number three: Use public transport from the airport

There are several shuttle buses for tourists and taxis waiting for you in front of the airport but there is a way cheaper option most locals use: public transport. The bus number 55 goes around twelve times a day to the capital Reykjavik (less on the weekend), takes around an hour and 15 minutes and costs 2,280 kr (around 15.50 € or 16 US$). You can pay by card on the bus. You will find a timetable here.

❗️Tip: There are also plenty of car rental places at the airport so it can be also an idea to book the car at the airport and use it to save the cost of leaving and going to the airport.

Number four: Don’t travel by yourself

Don’t get me wrong, I love travelling alone and Iceland is one of the safest countries in the world. But travelling alone is just way more expensive. Try to plan your trip with a group of friends, ideally 4-5 people in total (or as many spots as your rented car has), so you can divide costs as the car rental, petrol, accommodation and food. This will save you a lot of money.

Number five: Do research on the accommodation

You can probably already guess: Staying in Iceland is very expensive as well. Cheaper solutions can be renting a caravan to have a car and a place to sleep in once. Also, camping by tent can be an alternative (at least in summer but you have also to calculate with more expensive gear).

Of course, sharing a dorm room (I paid 46 € / 49 US$ per night for sharing a room with 20 people) can be also an opportunity to save some money. Otherwise, number four also applies here – travel with friends and share bigger rooms with each other.

Number six: Be prepared for any weather

Clothes are another important topic: Especially in summer, you should bring different clothes instead of this one really warm jacket (don’t bring your winter jacket in summer!). The best tactic is to use layers – or as we would say in Germany use the ‘onion look’ (because – you know – onions have layers 😉 ). The weather can switch super fast – in summer you can easily have all four seasons in one day.

Really important regardless of when you travel: Bring a rain jacket and windbreaker plus a hat and gloves. Believe me, even in summer you will need them.  

Number seven: Cook for yourself

In many (Western) countries cooking by yourself can save a lot of money – and it is a main point for Iceland as well. Go shopping in supermarkets (not convenience stores!), the cheapest are Bonus (with a pig in the logo) and netto.

❗️Tip: Honestly, Iceland is not exactly famous for its food anyway. One of the more popular dishes is Fish and Chips. If you want to give it a try but still save some money – give food trucks a try. Locals recommended Vagninn a truck at the harbour of Reykjavik, but it is only open in summer. Also, Hot Dogs (even in Vegetarian and Vegan options) are a popular food choice in Iceland, you can get them at food trucks (for example at Hallgrímskirkja, the main church of Reykjavik) as well.

Number eight: Bring a reusable bottle

You don’t need to spend any money on water because not only the tap water but also the water coming from glaciers, streams and waterfalls is very clean and drinkable. Just bring a reusable bottle and save your money.

Number nine: Use free hot springs

You probably already heard of spas like the Blue Lagoon and Sky Lagoon – the entrance fees are rather high. If you want to save money you can also take a look for free (or way cheaper) hot springs in nature you can find everywhere in Iceland. There is also an App called Iceland Hot Spring Map (but costs money). The hot springs have an average temperature of 38-40 degrees Celsius (100-104 degrees Fahrenheit) which makes it possible to take a bath outside all year long. – And as the locals say here: there is always a place for one person more join the hot spring.

Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool

My favourite hot springs we visited were:

  • Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool, one of the oldest pools of Iceland: H98V+FC9, 861 Evindarhólar
  • Fosslaug Waterfall with hot springs: FJV8+MHM, Varmahlíð
  • Hot Tube in the Westfjords: Bíldudalsvegur, 466

❗️Tip: Did you know that you can also snorkel or dive between the two tectonic plates of North America and Eurasia? Unfortunately, this is the opposite of free since you need special equipment to swim in the cold water. You can find the rift Silfra in the Mid-Atlantic Ridge in the national park of Þingvellir.

Number ten: Download offline maps

This can be lifesaving! Especially in the Highlands and the Westfjords, you can easily lose your internet connection, so make sure to download the maps beforehand particularly if you use Google Maps for navigation.

Number eleven: Leave the Golden Circle

Don’t get me wrong, the Golden Circle has really beautiful sights but especially in summer it is also really crowded since it is close to Reykjavik. So don’t plan too much time on the Golden Circle – there is so much more to see! One underrated and not-so-often visited part of Iceland is the Westfjords.

Number twelve: Enjoy the free nature

This is not really a tip but something that makes Iceland so great. A lot of nature and spots are for free (like the most famous waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss). The national parks as well, the only fees you have to calculate are the parking fees. In order to keep it that way, respect the rules, don’t leave any trash (only foodprints) and enjoy this beautiful and unique island.

I hope I could help you with those tips. Are you missing anything? Then feel free to leave me a comment. Have a great time in Iceland!

You have read the blog post 12 Mistakes you should avoid in Iceland on My Travel Journal-Blog.

Top Activities for Sal – and is it worth the money?

Salinas of Santa Maria

Observing sharks, floating on water, catching a Fata Morgana, crossing the desert by bike or kite surfing are only a few activities of the Cap Verdian paradise Sal. I share with you the top activities and answer the question if it is worth it.

Most tourists who visit Cabo Verde will either way fly to Boa Vista or Sal. Both islands look similar with long white sand beaches, the blue ocean right in front and a lot of hotel chains. Also, both islands are really dry, with only a few cities and otherwise pretty much deserted. But both islands offer a few more activities and spots you can visit to make your stay a bit more varied. In this blog post, I will share the top activities of Sal.

Salinas of Sal

The island is called Sal for a reason. For years Sal was used to win and export salt. Nowadays, there are two Salinas left. One is the famous Salinas de Pedra de Lume in the North-East, the other one is Salinas de Santa Maria and right behind the city in the South of the island.

The Salinas de Pedra de Lume are a very popular and famous spot to swim in – or better you can let yourself float in the water. You should make sure to not stay longer than 20 minutes inside because of the high salinity. But I can promise you your skin will feel really smooth in the end because of the salt peeling. The entrance fee is 5 €.

The Salinas de Santa Maria are not that famous. You can find them right behind the same named city. They are still used for salt production. You can also have a nice walk around them. They look really spectacular, some of the water fields are even pink and red. But locals told me to only go there during the week and before sunset for safety reasons (because the Salinas are very deserted on the weekend).

Is it worth it?

Yes, definitely. I both liked seeing the Salinas of Santa Maria but also floating in Pedra de Lume. I also think the latter is worth the entrance fee. I would totally recommend it.

Pedra de Lume
Pedra de Lume
Salinas of Santa Maria
Salinas of Santa Maria
Shark Bay

Shark Bay is a popular spot for tourists on the east coast. Here you can find a bay in the ocean with shallow water which is a perfect spot to see baby lemon sharks. Before you enter the water you should make sure to lend some closed water shoes. You will enter the water with a guide. Then you can see the little sharks swimming around your legs.

The little sharks eat fish but are not dangerous to humans. In contrast, the bigger lemon shark could become a danger to humans since they are easily provoked. However, the bigger sharks can not enter the bay because the water is not deep enough.

Is it worth it?

It is a special moment seeing the little sharks so if it is something you can enjoy then go for it.

Terra Boa

The middle of Sal is pretty much like a little desert – a lot of sand. Therefore it is also perfect to see a Fata Morgana and to do fun photos playing with perspectives. A famous spot to do so is Terra Boa. From here you will feel like you can always see water on the horizon but there is none. So you are actually able to see a Fata Morgana. You can use the same effect for photos. Since there is almost nothing else but sand it is actually hard to estimate distances. Maybe you know the funny photos people take in the famous salt desert in Bolivia. Here are similar ideas working (just of course the ground is not reflecting). You should definitely play a bit with perspective here and get creative. For example, I balanced with one leg on my camera.

Is it worth it?

It definitely gives you the Wow-effect and it was fun taking some creative photos but it only makes sense if you actually have someone who can take them for you. It is a little stopover, nothing too big.

Zipline

The Zipline of Cabo Verde is located in the protected area of Serra Negra close to Santa Maria. The tour includes the pick-up from Santa Maria.

The starting point will be the valley station from where you will be welcomed and get an introduction on how to zipline. There you will also find lockers to leave your belongings behind. I actually brought my phone up with me for photos because you will also get a little backpack from the organisers which you can use to put in your valuables. Do not forget to bring your action cam with you to film the whole ride. Otherwise, you can also lend a GoPro.

After the introduction, you will be driven a bit further up the mountain and walk the rest up by yourself with the group. The starting point of the zipline is in 103 metres ( 337 feet) at the top of the mountain. The flight length is over 1  km (0.62 miles) and can reach over 100 km/h (62 mph). You can ride down sitting or headfirst hanging.

Is it worth it?

The experience itself was great, the guides were really nice and helpful but the ride was with 45 € ( 48.50 US$) a bit pricey. Overall, I enjoyed the ride but it was also pretty fast over. If you always wanted to take a ride on the zipline or just enjoy it in general you can think of doing it otherwise it will be maybe not worth the money.

Bike Tour

In Santa Maria are some bike rentals for normal and E-Bikes you can lend to do a tour. I got a flyer with a map on it but honestly, the way didn’t exist like marked anymore because they started building a house in between. This made it a bit more adventurous for me than I planned in the beginning. In general, the winds in Sal can get really strong. When I was there, the winds mainly always flew in the same direction which made it really hard going from South to North but quite easy the other way. However, it is a special way of exploring the island especially if you do not have a car.

Is it worth it?

It was a nice activity I could do on my own but also pretty exhausting riding against the strong wind. If you enjoy riding a bike you can definitely plan a little nice tour otherwise it is not really on the prior list of activities. I paid 10 € (10,80 US$) for four hours. If you want to lend a bike you can also use Komoot to find a tour or join a group tour of the bike rental.

Kite Beach

Sal is really famous for kite surfing since there are perfect weather conditions from December to April. There is even a beach called Kite Beach on the East side of the island not too far from Santa Maria. The winds are too strong for beginners but if you have already some experience, you can also go kite surfing here. Otherwise, you can just enjoy the colourful kites in the sky. The beach was also used for the latest kite-surf World Cup in 2023.

Is it worth it?

It is totally nice if it is the right weather conditions. You have to check first if it is actually a good day for kitesurfing (aka the right winds) otherwise the beach will be pretty empty.

Blue Eye Cave (Buracona)

Buracona is a natural pool which can be used for swimming if the waves are not too strong. If you are lucky you can also see the Blue Eye from a cliff. If the sun shines on the surface of the water it will change its colour to turquoise. The light is formed by the cliff and has the shape of an eye which brings it its name.

There is also a sightseeing tower nearby from which you can enjoy seeing the natural pools and the wide ocean. Buracona has an entrance fee of 3 €.

Is it worth it?

It was special to see the Blue Eye Cave and to take a look at the strong waves of the ocean (when I was there it was too windy to swim). I would totally recommend a visit.

Snorkelling and Diving Tours

There are several diving schools around the island where you can book different courses and trips. I just did a one-time snorkelling tour to see the underwater world. For these tours, you will not need any previous knowledge but can just join a group. I got snorkelling equipment plus a diving suit. But you can also book classes to learn how to dive and get certificates.

Is it worth it?

I can’t say anything about going diving. I met other tourists who really enjoyed it. But I did book a snorkelling tour. If I am honest the water was not too clear so it was sometimes hard to see something but in the end, we saw a few turtles which was actually nice. But there are definitely better snorkelling spots than this one. Take a look at the video for a better insight.

Where to find the activities
Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

You have read the blog post Top Activities for Sal – and is it worth the money? on My Travel Journal-Blog.

Santiago on a budget – Top 6 activities

The national park Serra Malagueta

Santiago is kind of an all-rounder offering you different activities from hiking, over swimming to exploring the culture of Cabo Verde. Explore more about the history of the country, visit a village of rebels, and learn more about how Cabo Verde was used for the slave trade.  Here are six tips on what to do on Santiago if you want to save some money but still have a good time.

If you are visiting Cabo Verde’s main island Santiago, you will fast recognise that food and activities are in general more expensive since most products are imported from Portugal. Here are six perfect activities for you if you are also travelling on a budget.

Number One: Visit the local markets

If you visit Santiago, you should make sure to visit some of the famous markets around. One food market called Mercado Municipal for fruits and vegetables but also fish is directly in the city centre of the capital Praia on the plateau of the city. If you follow down the stairs you come directly to a second even bigger market called Mercado de Sucupira. From here are also starting the colectivos (minibuses used as public transport, read more in my blog post General tips for your vacation on Cabo Verde) to go around the island.
Mercado de Sucupeira is a market where you can buy all kinds of clothes but also shoes, jewellery, accessories and other different items. The market is also used by locals for shopping. Here I bought some pretty hair bands. Locals sell self-made clothes in traditional colours and fabricsMost of them bring their sewing machines to fix the sizes in case a garment is not fitting you. The prices are really reasonable. I paid 150-200 CVE (1.36-1.80 €/  1.50-2 US$) for a hair band and on a market in Sao Vicente 1,000 CVE (9 €/ 10 US$) for a homemade shirt plus 200 CVE (1.80 €/ 2 US$) extra to change it to my perfect fit. The market also sells homemade meals in front of the market. I paid 200 CVE (1.80 €/ 2 US$) for a whole meal. You can eat no were else in Praia cheaper than here.

Also, the other towns on the islands have their own markets. There is another big market in the second biggest city of Santiago called Assomada you can visit on Wednesdays and Saturdays. If you are in Assomada make sure to also visit the Poilon Tree, the oldest tree in Africa. 

Number Two: Visit Cidade Velha

Cidade Velha is the old town and former capital of Cabo Verde. The town was formerly called Ribeira Grande and was also renamed again to Ribeira Grande de Santiago in 2005. But all locals know and most of them also still use the old name Cidade Velha. It became the first settlement on the islands of Cabo Verde in 1462, founded by Antonio da Noli. Cabo Verde was actually a former uninhabited island. But with the discovery by Portugal, Cabo Verde was used for the slave trade marking the dark history of further colonial power of Europe. Most slaves were brought from Guinea-Bissau and Sierra Leone to Brazil and the Caribbean. Therefore nowadays the inhabitants of Cabo Verde are the descendants of Europeans and Africans – both influenced the Creole culture of Cabe Verde.

The historical centrum of Cidade Velha became part of the UNESCO world heritage in 2009. The town is full of history and culture. The Rua da Banana has nice traditional houses to gaze at and at the end of the street an old renovated church which is the oldest in Africa. There is also a fortress you can visit, which recalls the ancient history of the town being used for slavery. Cidade Velha is located next to the ocean and has a rocky stone beach.  

Number Three: Go swimming in Cuba

Cuba is one of Santiago’s must-visits where you can swim in natural pools. Natural pools are little lagoons which are separated from the ocean. Cuba offers little water pools of stone with stone and sandy ground and different depths. It is close to Ribeira das Pratas (next to Tarrafal). You can reach it by hiking down to Ribeira Principal.

The pools of Cuba fill with fresh water from the ocean when the waves get a bit higher. On these days you should obviously also not swim in the pools since the strong waves can press you against the walls or under water. There is no entrance fee for the natural pools.    

Number Four: Go hiking in Serra Malagueta

Serra Malagueta is a huge natural preserve in the heart of Santiago. Here you can have different kinds of hikes, like following a loop road but also a one-way path ending at the East and North-West coast.

The national park is located on a volcanic mountain range. The peak of Serra Malagueta is with 1,064 metres (3,490 feet) the second highest on the island (the highest is Pico da Antónia with 1,394 metres or 4,573 feet). If the sky is really clear you can see the neighbouring islands Fogo and Maio at the horizon. The park was founded in February 2005 and has a size of 774 hectares (1,912 acres).

Cabo Verde’s landscape can be really dry. If you want to hike in green you should come right after the rainy season to Cabo Verde, which is during September.  You can find 124 different kinds of plants and around 19 different birds.

You can find a collection of hiking tours with the official app of Cabo Verde. Hiking in Cabo Verde is in general save, there are no dangerous animals anyway on the islands. You should just make sure to go with enough time, during day time and if possible bring others with you. You could also think about booking a hiking tour.

❗️ Tip: In the 1940s the mountains of Serra Malagueta were a hiding spot for the Rabelados, a group of non-violent rebels who flew from the Portuguese colonial ruler. The community of Rabelados are still living in this area. You can take a Colectivo from Calheta to find Espinho Branco to visit a little village and learn more about their traditions and culture. They also offer their own art exhibition

Number Five: Visit the beaches in Tarrafal

The nicest beaches on Santiago are probably in Tarrafal in the North-West of the island. Here you can choose between white or black sand beaches and enjoy perfect sunsets.

You will find the black beach in Reibeira das Pratas which is nearby Tarrafal. The beach is usually deserted because it is a bit harder to find by tourists. So if you are lucky you will have (almost) the whole beach to yourself. When I went to visit the beach there was only one other couple there. If you are lucky you can even see the neighbouring island Fogo from the shore.
As I mentioned, the beach is a bit hidden from the road. There is a path, you have to follow which goes between coconut and palm trees. The beach is at the end of it. There is also a self-made sign saying ‘beach’. My host in Praia told me it is even allowed to set up a camp there which sounds pretty perfect in the combination of being in the West and having the whole horizon with the possibility of beautiful sunsets right in front of you.

The more famous white beach is directly in Tarrafal – here for sure, you won’t be alone. At this beach, you can also rent a boat or try jet ski.

But also Praia has some nice beaches you can visit. A bit hard to reach but famous for its turtles is São Francisco. Here turtles lay eggs if it is in the season. There are also some beaches closer to the city where you can go swimming as the little beach Prainha or the bigger one Praia da Gamboa.

Number Six: Enjoy the Street Art around Praia

Especially the two districts Achada Grande Frente and Terra Branca in the capital Praia offer a lot of different street art you can explore for free. Achada Grande Frente shows a long underwater scene and musicians. The art of Terra Branca is more diverse diving into the culture of the country. But you can also find more street art around the whole island like in Tarrafal. Read more about my favourite street art on Cabo Verde in my blog post Best Street Art spots on Cabo Verde.

❗️ One last extra tip

Enjoy the live music everywhere around the island. Especially in the capital Praia, there are a lot of nice spots to have dinner and listen to some music – there are several types from traditional to modern world music. Not really low budget but still worth a mention is 5tal da Música, a restaurant that offers different music and dances every night. Since it is a place where tour guides love to bring tourists you should make a reservation first.

But also if you do not want to spend too much money on food, crabbing some snacks and drinks and walking around the main streets of Praia will also entertain you for sure.

You have read the blog post Santiago on a budget – Top 6 activities on My Travel Journal-Blog.

General tips for your vacation on Cabo Verde

People sitting infront of a mural in Praia

Planning my vacation on Cabo Verde, I crossed one or the other challenge. Starting with the domestic flights but also the transportation on the islands. This is a little guide for you with tips for your vacation on Cabo Verde.

At the beginning of 2023, I visited four of the nine inhabited islands of Cabo Verde (in English it is actually called Cape Verde but the country prefers the name Cabo Verde, which I will therefore use in this post). First, I went to the main island of Santiago with the capital Praia. From there I flew to São Vicente to visit the cultural island with its capital Mindelo. A ferry brought me to a hiking weekend on Santo Antão. My last stop was the vacation dream of Sal, a paradise for surfers with perfect beaches.
I started planning my trip about half a year beforehand and had to overcome one or the other challenge when booking my trip but also on site. This is why I want to share all my tips to make it easier for you. 



CVE – The currency of Cabo Verde

Cabo Verde uses Cabo-Verde-Escudo (CVE). But most islands also take Euros. It is very common on the more touristic islands Sal and Boa Vista. Here you can also pay in coins, the other islands usually only take bills. In general, it is also way cheaper to pay in the local currency. If you pay in Euros most people change 1 € to 100 CVE which is a weaker calculation. In general, it is also really common to pay by credit card.

Good to know is also that you are not allowed to bring Escudos outside of Cabo Verde therefore it is also not possible to change the money beforehand in your home country.

Arriving on Cabo Verde

Depending on which island you are flying to you will arrive in different cities. The most touristic islands are Sal and Boa Vista and therefore offer also the cheapest flights. So you will probably arrive eighter way on SID or BVC. One important piece of information is that no matter which island you are flying to there is no public transport coming and going to the airport. Therefore you will need to take a taxi or arrange something in the beginning (a lot of accommodations offer a pick-up).

Public Transport

Cabo Verde has no public transport but Colectivos (also called Aluger) which locals use to travel over the island. Colectivos are mini buses usually of the brand Toyota Hiace and drive around the main streets of the islands and stop in the different towns. But you can also pull them in on the way or ask the drivers to drop you off in between towns (I used this on São Vicente to go to the airport since the main street between Mindelo and São Pedro crosses the airport). The mini buses are also safe to use by tourists. There is usually one common stop in every city from where all Colectivos leave. In the capital Praia, the busses stop in the street in front of the big market called Sucupira Market. In São Vicente they stop in the city centre around the markets. You can also easily ask locals to help you find the right stop or take a look at the official app of Cabo Verde (see below).

A Colectivo at the market in Praia

The prices are usually fixed and way cheaper than the taxis. Anyway, you should ask the driver for the price before entering the bus so you don’t get caught by surprise. You pay the driver when you arrive at your destination. The driver has usually enough money to give you a change in case you don’t have it fitting.

It is the easiest to catch buses before 12 pm because then a lot of people use the minibuses. Because the driver will wait until the minibus is full (or he decides it is full enough) with people before he leaves (in this case I can say he – I really didn’t see one single female driver). Usually, a minibus has a spot for 15 people. You pay per seat so if you bring huge luggage you need to bring in the bus, you will need to pay extra if your luggage blocks a seat (sometimes you are lucky and they have a space in the small boot or a net on the bus). 

The drivers also use their minibuses to deliver items between the towns so do not worry if they stop to carry extra buckets.

Santo Antão: I felt it was a bit special on Santo Antão. Here the minibuses are way more often also used as taxis for tourists. You have to ask for an Aluguer Colectivo in order to share the minibus with locals otherwise it happens that the driver will try to give you an expensive single drive.

Prices for Colectivos in 2023

Santiago:
Praia to Tarafal: 600 CVE (5.40 € | 4.90 US$)
Praia to Cidade Velha: 100 CVE (0.90 € | 1 US$)

São Vicente:
Mindelo to São Pedro: 100 CVE (0.90 € | 1 US$)
Mindelo to Salamanca: 100 CVE (0.90 € | 1 US$)

Santo Antão:
Ferry to Paul: 350 CVE (3.15 € | 3.45 US$)
Ferry to Ribeira Grande: 450 CVE (4 € | 4.40 US$)
Ribeira Grande to Xoxo: 100 CVE (0.90 € | 1 US$)
Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol: 50 CVE (0.45 € | 0.50 US)

Sal:
Santa Maria to Espargos 100 CVE (0.90 € | 1 US$)

Taxi

Taxis are really common on all islands. The prices are usually negotiable. Also here you should make sure to ask the driver beforehand how much he wants for the ride. Especially from the airport the drivers sometimes try to make prices higher. It can help if you just switch taxis.

Prices for Taxis in 2023

Santiago:
Airport to Praia: 10 € (11 US$)

São Vicente:
Airport to Mindelo: 12 € (13 US$)

Santo Antão:
Ferry to Paul: 30 € (32.50 US$)

Sal:
Airport to Santa Maria: 20 € (21.50 US$)
Airport to Espargos: 4 € (4.30 US$)

How to cross the islands

If you want to visit more than one island, you have two possibilities to cross over. The easiest but more expensive way is to take a flight. The second possibility is to take a ferry to cross the islands.

BestFly is the local flight company that offers different flights every day. If you choose to fly, you can buy your flights on the homepage of BestFly. At least if you are lucky – BestFly didn’t work with my Visa credit card and I read on the internet that many other people had the same problem. I wrote to a local travel agency which booked the flights for me. You can also buy the tickets last minute on the spot. But be aware that the airplanes are small and often booked out beforehand.

The main ferry company of Cabo Verde is called CV Interilhas.  Depending on where you want to go the ferry can take several hours, the longest direct ride takes 13 hours and 20 minutes between Santiago and São Vicente. The ferries are less reliable than the airplanes because the ships sometimes don’t leave on time because of damages or weather conditions. It can even happen that the ferries don’t leave the harbour for several weeks because of weather conditions. Locals told me that the only reliable ferry is the one from São Vicente to Santo Antão, since Santo Antão has no airport (but my tour guide from Santo Antão told me an airport is already planned). There are two different companies going between these two islands, one is the one I mentioned already above, and the other one is called ARMAS – Nôsd Ferry (this ferry has no website, you can buy the tickets at the harbour of Mindelo and Porto Novo).

❗️ A little tip from my side: Bring some medication against travel sickness if you are not sure how resistant you are against strong swells. One positive point though: I heard a lot of people see dolphins and sometimes even whales when they cross the ocean on longer ferry rides. 

Tip: Official Cabo Verde App

In the end, I would like to recommend you download the official app of Cabo Verde. The app offers a little guide of every island showing you among other things where the Colectivos are leaving, some sightseeing points and hikes.

You have read the blog post Tips for your vacation on Cabo Verde on My Travel Journal-Blog.