Good to know – Your first trip to Nepal

Swayambhunath stupa in Kathmandu

Here is my little guide on what to know before travelling for the first time to Nepal, the country with the world’s highest mountains and the birthplace of Buddha. I will share my experiences with you, provide tips on trekking and transportation, highlight common mistakes to avoid, and suggest dishes to try out.

Facts – A country full of opposites

Population: 30 million
Capital: Kathmandu
Currency: Nepalese rupee (NPR)
1 EUR is 145.20 NPR
1 US$ is 133.01 NPR

Nepal is the home of eight of the fourteen world’s highest peaks with a height above 8,000 m (26,246 feet), along with the highest mountain of the world: Mount Everest. According to the Nepalese embassy, the Upper Himalaya occupies 15 % of the total area of the country; the middle hills and Lower Himalaya cover even 68 %. The landscape is really diverse, and offers not only the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayas but also national parks in the Terai region with a lowest altitude of 70 m (229 ft) above sea level in the South of the county. These national parks are home for endangered animals like the Royal Bengal tiger, the One-horned rhinoceros and Gangetic dolphins.

Nepal is a rather small country especially compared to its neighbours India and China. Nepal’s size of 147,181 km² (56,826 mi²) can be compared with countries like Bangladesh (148,460 km²; 56,977 mi²) and Tajikistan (143,099 km²; 55,100 mi²) or the US state of Iowa (145,746 km²; 56,272 mi²). The main religions are Hinduism and Buddhism. Nepal is known as the birthplace of Buddha.

Safety – Listen to your instincts

I have to say that I felt totally save walking through Kathmandu and Pokhara, also at night on busy streets. There was not a moment I felt worried or afraid, and I also did not see anyone who would try to harm me in any way. Of course, you should always listen to your gut feeling and instincts. Stay in busy streets at night, and if you feel unsafe take an official taxi home.  

Trekking – One of the top activities in Nepal

One of the top activities when visiting Nepal is trekking in the Himalayan Mountains. Since April 2023, it has been obligatory to arrange for a guide to accompany you on your hike. You can easily organise your tour through one of the many tourist companies and find someone who speaks English or even another foreign language. Your company and guide can also assist you in finding a trek that suits your fitness level and recommend guest houses for lunch breaks and overnight stays.

You can also arrange a Sherpa for your trekking. Sherpas will be paid to carry your backpack for you. Our Sherpa even cooked for us. We had three meals a day plus tea breaks. We were a group of five people accompanied by a first guide, a second guide and two Sherpas carrying our luggage.  

Extra tip and no health insurance benefits

It is common to give your guide and Sherpa an extra tip on top of their payment. The amount of the tip depends on the size of your group and the status of the guide. Typically, guides will receive a larger tip than Sherpas. We also had to research the appropriate amount of tip, but decided to give the guides around 8 EUR (approx. 9 USD) per day per person and the Sherpas 4 EUR (approx. 4.50 USD) per day per person. It is also important to emphasize that there are no health insurance benefits for locals in Nepal. Therefore, guides and Sherpas have to pay their medical bills themselves. Earning more money through tips can help them save to cover their higher risk of illness.  

Bring enough cash with you because there will be no chance to withdraw money in the mountains. Some people also accept Euros or US Dollars but will charge you significantly more than in the local currency.  

Rent your trekking clothes

There are many shops in cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara where you can buy or rent various types of trekking clothes and gear, such as suitable jackets, backpacks or sleeping bags. Our guides provided us with sleeping bags rated for -20 degrees because most houses in Nepal do not have heaters, so it can get very cold at night.

Beware of altitude sickness

One of the primary concerns for hikers is altitude sickness, which can be extremely dangerous. Altitude sickness occurs when ascending too rapidly, causing the body to not have enough time to adjust to the reduced oxygen and air pressure. This can result in symptoms such as headaches, fatigue, dizziness, loss of appetite, and swelling of the hands, feet, and face. In severe cases, it can lead to pain, nausea, and vomiting, and if left untreated, it can even cause death.

Therefore, it is crucial to listen to your body and take steps to prevent altitude sickness. While I am neither a doctor nor a hiking expert, here are some tips I learned in Nepal: It is important to ascend slowly, typically not gaining more than 500 m (1,640 ft) in altitude per day. Additionally, it is advisable to should also descend or stay at the same altitude every 3 to 4 days once you reach 3,000 m (9,842 ft) or above. You should also increase your water intake. It is best to consult with your doctor beforehand, especially if you are not used to high altitudes and plan on ascending above 2,500 m (8,202 ft).

Transportation – Very slow and quite bumpy

There are several local buses you can use for travelling within the cities or for overland journeys. Just be aware that the ‘highway’ is currently not paved, so overland travel is slow and quite bumpy due to poor road conditions. A drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara takes approximately 6-8 hours for a distance of 201 km (125 mi). However, when we visited Nepal in January 2024, the country was already working diligently on the development of the roads. Until then, booking a flight can also be an alternative. Flights are relatively expensive but will save you a significant amount of time. We paid 120 EUR (approx. 130 USD) for a one-way flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu.

Food – veggie and spicy

To me, Nepal was heaven on earth because it offers a lot of vegetarian dishes. Nepalese people usually eat very spicy, so I must warn you not to ignore the spiciness level on the menu and to ask for less spicy food, at least if you are not used to it. Ordering a Lassi can be a perfect choice, not only saving your mouth from burning caused by too many chillies in your food, but it is also a local drink from Nepal (and India). Lassi is a yoghurt drink that can be enjoyed plain or with different flavours such as vanilla, mango or chocolate. It tastes similar to a milkshake and is super delicious.

Dal Bhat

Nepalese cuisine is influenced by its neighbouring regions of Tibet and India. The most common dish is Dal Bhat (Nepali: दालभात). It consists of rice, lentils (also in the form of soup), various curries, and vegetables such as onion, garlic, ginger, chilli, tomatoes, beans, or tamarind. The variety of vegetables also depends on the seasonal availability and the region. Another popular Nepalese dish is Momos, dumplings filled with vegetables or meat.

By the way, cows are considered holy and therefore, protected animals in Nepal. Consequently, you will not find any beef on the menu because killing cows is punishable by law. 

Water – Why you should only eat peelable fruits

Tap water should not be consumed by people who are not accustomed to the local bacteria in the water. To be safe, you should buy bottled water and avoid drinks made with ice cubes. Also, be cautious with fruits washed with tap water and cold dishes like salads. If you want to be on the safe side, you should prefer eating fruits that you have to peel before eating, such as bananas and oranges, and only consume cooked dishes where the bacteria get killed in the process. I also read that it is advisable to avoid eating fish and meat.

Nepalese Calendar – Welcome to year 2080

In Nepal, people use two different kinds of calendars: Nepal Sambat as the ceremonial calendar, and Vikram Samvat as the official calendar. However, Nepalese are also familiar with “our” calendar, the Gregorian one.

Nepal Sambat is a lunar calendar based on the monthly cycles of the Moon’s phases. This calendar is mainly used by the Newar people in Nepal for celebrating festivals and observation rituals.

Vikram Samvat is a solar calendar and is around 56 (from January-April) to 57 (from May-December) years ahead of the Gregorian calendar, depending on the month. Therefore, while it is the year 2024 in the Gregorian calendar, it is the year 2080 in Vikram Samvat. The calendar is also used in the Indian subcontinent. 

Weather – Different temperatures and no heaters

Nepal has huge significant temperature variations depending on altitude and between day and night. Therefore, you should be prepared for all kinds of weather and dress in layers.

In general, the best time to travel is from the end of September to May. However, it also depends a bit on what activities you plan to do and where you intend to go.

Be aware that most Nepalese houses do not have heaters but only a fireplace in the central area of the house (typically the living room). Additionally, access to hot water may not be guaranteed. Usually, thick blankets are provided in every accommodation, including guesthouses in the mountains. We also rented extra sleeping bags beforehand because nights can get extremely cold, sometimes requiring sleeping with a hat and scarf. If you freeze easily, I would recommend bringing a hot water bottle to Nepal. Most “better” hotels provide a kettle in their rooms, and it shouldn’t be a problem to ask for hot water in a guesthouse as well.

Fun facts – Parties, tip, and bargain

In Nepal, working and school are from Sunday to Friday, with only Saturday as a day off. Therefore, the best day to go out at night is Friday when bars and clubs are filled with people.

Usually, you will not be expected to tip in Nepal. However, especially in tourist areas, people are more used to receiving tips anyway. So, consider giving a small tip to your driver, hotel staff, and restaurant servers. People will not expect it, but they will appreciate it. An exception is tipping your guides and sherpas, which is entirely customary (see the section on trekking).

While stores and supermarkets have fixed prices, it is common to bargain at markets, such as the tourist shops in Kathmandu. Our guide informed us that prices can be up to double what the products would usually cost on the street.

In larger cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara, as well as in tourist areas, there are more and more shops, restaurants and accommodations where it is possible to pay by credit card. Nonetheless, it’s always advisable to bring some cash in the local currency Nepalese Rupees (NPR) with you. You can easily withdraw money from ATMs in the cities or exchange your currency to NPR at official exchange points. However, be aware that it may become increasingly difficult or even impossible to exchange or withdraw money in rural areas and mountainous regions.

Have you visited Nepal before? Share your tips in the comments below.

You have read the blog post Good to know – Your first trip to Nepal on My Travel Journal-Blog.

222 Days of Asia – backpacking & culture shock in 13 countries

Cherry blossom trees in a king's palace in Korea

In 222 days I travelled to 13 different countries. It all started with my exchange semester in Seoul at the end of August 2016. Afterwards, I went from Beijing to Bali and ended with a stop-over in the United Arab Emirates. During my travels I learned a lot about backpacking, other cultures, living on a budget, and finding new friends.

Young woman sitting infront of a gate of a Korean palace

It all started in January 2016, when I applied to study abroad in South Korea and already half a year later, I was sitting on a plane to Seoul. I remember how I chose the country of the exchange programme: I wanted it to be one which would be completely different from every country I have ever been to. I basically wanted to get a culture shock – another language, language script, food, culture, architecture, and history. And when I arrived in Seoul it came with a lot of challenges but also with a lot of excitement. For example, at first, the food was way too spicy for me. I upset my stomach so much that I could only eat soft bread for a week. I also remember how my friend and I got kicked out (or actually we weren’t even allowed to enter) of a restaurant by an Ajumma (it is a Korean word to describe middle-aged women) because we couldn’t speak Korean fluently – but no worries I am pretty sure this was a unique experience. But still, it was love at first sight. I loved Korea from the first moment on. You can read more about my first impressions in my blog post University, Hangul & Samul Nori – My first week in Seoul.

The fear of travelling alone

But Korea was only the first part of my travels to Asia. Back in Berlin, I met a German couple at a party, Anni and Alex who were in Seoul themselves. They told me about their semester abroad and how they travelled Asia afterwards. The winter semester in Korea ends in mid of December, the summer semester in Germany starts in mid of April – this makes almost four months of free time in between. I was really hooked from this chance but also a bit worried. I felt a bit jealous that they had each other to explore all these adventures together. Would I really be brave enough to travel for four months on my own? – far from home, far from anyone I know, and without the language skills? Also travelling alone as a woman was part of my (self-)doubts. This was for sure a step outside of my comfort zone. But it didn’t take long until I realised that this was my chance to see a bit more of the world and that the excitement about this possibility was way bigger than any fear I ever felt.

Travelling is not a race

On New Year’s Eve 2016, I started the second part of my journey. I took a flight to Beijing, from there I continued to Hong Kong, did a day trip to Macau and flew to Vietnam. In the beginning, I felt I had to see as much as possible. I had only two weeks in Vietnam. My days were packed with activities; I only stayed for one or two nights in each place and travelled on night buses to save the days (and the money). After Vietnam I realised, this is not how backpacking works and how you travel long-term. Being all day outside and exploring is great for a two weeks vacation but for another three months, this would be way too exhausting. This was the time I decided to slow down. This beginner’s mistake was also the main reason why I travelled to so many countries in such a short period of time. It was a combination of naivety, a lack of knowledge, and also the easiest reason: I just couldn’t decide which countries I should head to first. In the end, I had to learn on the road to pick a few destinations and rather take more time to explore them than to miss half of it in the rush.

On a budget – 10 $ a day

Besides that fast travelling is exhausting, it is also more expensive. First of all, you have a smaller time frame to find a suiting mode of transport and secondly, obviously, you spend more money on entrance fees if you want to squeeze everything into one day.  
I had a limited budget of 10 $ a day, including accommodation and food. It was (and is) definitely possible to travel on a budget through South East Asia. I always chose the cheapest dormitory rooms in hostels or did Couchsurfing, I ate a lot of street food, travelled by public transport, and asked the hostel staff for insider tips. But I also allowed myself to have one more expensive activity or trip in every country. I did kayaking between the 4,000 islands of Laos, went snorkelling and visited a Full Moon party in Thailand, went to the Forbidden City in Beijing, as well as the famous Angkor Wat temples in Cambodia, and the Gardens by the Bay in Singapore. My travels ended after three months at Bali. From there I went back to Seoul and with a short stop-over in the United Arab Emirates, back to Berlin.   

During my semester abroad in Seoul, I travelled for four days to Tokyo, and also visited different places in South Korea as the borderline to North Korea, the island Jeju, the second biggest city Busan and an island in a river – Nami Island. On New Year’s Eve, I took a flight to Beijing and from there I started my travels through South East Asia – to Hong Kong, Macau, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and on my way back from Korea to the United Arab Emirates.                  

Alone but never lonely

In the beginning, one of my fears was that I would be alone and maybe even lonely on my travels. But anyone who already backpacked and stayed in dormitories knows you are never alone, especially if you do not want to. The backpacker community is huge. In every hostel, you meet new inspiring people from all over the world. I spent hours listing to travel stories, visited sights together, I even took a motorcycle ride with other backpackers, went to parties together, and learned a lot about different cultures. But not only the backpackers were open, but also all the local people I met during the time. I talked to the staff from my hostels and homestays, used hangouts to get in contact with locals who were interested in meeting, and Couchsurfing to get another chance to meet new people and learn more about other cultures. One of my favourite memories is, when I stayed with Ratha and his family in Siem Reap (read more here: Couchsurfing in Cambodia) or with Stella in Macau – she is like the sweetest even if she forced me to try my first chicken feet (I am not a fan, so sorry). Also how I met Lan in Hoi An, she worked in the homestay I slept for two nights. She was super lovely. One day, when I was still figuring out what to do, she brought me some of the food she had cooked for the staff. She had made rice with meat and vegetables. Especially the sauce was really tasty.
It was very inspiring to meet all these people during my travels, listen to their stories, their lives, their cultures, and their goals in life. Some of them were already since a few years on the move. Travelling is the opposite of being lonely; you will rather have a few more friends after your trip. 

For now, this is all I want to tell you about Asia. Everything else will come later – piece by piece. So hang on and read about all my crazy, funny and adventurous stories from Asia.

First written on Monday, May 22th, 2017, you have read the blog post 222 Days of Asia – backpacking & culture shock in 13 countries on My Travel Journal-Blog.

Curfew. Woman’s University. Visa. And lots of preparation.

In preparation for my exchange semester in Seoul …

DSCN7376

Why South Korea?

“Of all things, why South Korea?” This was a question I had to answer really often when I told someone I will make an exchange semester in Seoul. I never was in Asia before (once I crossed the Asian border of Istanbul – however, I’m not sure if this will count). But I was always really interested in the culture and people of Asia. I believe one of the main reasons are the cultural differences in the opposite of Western Europe. My first contact with Korea was through a friend a few years ago. She is a big fan of Japan and once she told me she had watched a really great TV series from South Korea and – for sure – I would love it. So I followed her advice and watched my first K-Drama (this is the abbreviation for series in the Korean language). The title of the series was “Playful Kiss” (or also “Mischievous Kiss”/ “Naughty Kiss”/ “장난스런 키스“) – a clumsy girl falls in love with a handsome and clever but also sometimes really rude boy. K-Dramas are really different from American, British or German series – I normally watch productions of these three countries.

The Korean culture is different, they have a variety of Dos and Dont’s which were really strange for me (… and they censor cigarettes on TV – because nobody will understand what a person holds in their hand when smoke is coming out of their mouth). Honour is an important value of the Korean culture and of course, the tribute and respect for older people and traditions. Korea has a high hierarchically system, which is especially striking in their language – Korean has five different polite forms. I also was really surprised that living together seems a really big no go for lovers in South Korea. However, I was really fascinated by all that – for me – crazy (but in a good way) new world in Asia. Later, I watched three, four other K-Dramas and heard some Korean Songs (it is called K-Pop).

The official YouTube channel of the TV series “Playful Kiss” – The producers created seven mini episodes for YouTube after the large success of the series.

Hangul and Coffee shops which sound like “copy shops”

However, when I decided to make my Master Studies in Berlin another aim was to make an exchange semester abroad because this was something I missed during my Bachelor Studies. You have three choices for the stay of an exchange, I thought I had to pick three countries (for real you have to choose three universities) – so I prepared myself for a counselling interview. I chose Vietnam, Thailand, and South Korea. The consultant was happy I named Korea and totally ignored the other two countries. She encouraged me to go to South Korea and told me that every student, who was in Korea, was highly satisfied with their choice. That was the decisive reason why I picked South Korea and applied to three universities in Seoul. In 2010 – when I was highly addicted to Korea and watched the K-Dramas for the first time  – I would have given everything to get the opportunity to go to Seoul. So six years later I wanted to take this chance. Actually, the only reason I didn’t choose South Korea on the first side was because of Hangul (this is the Korean alphabet). I was afraid I wouldn’t understand a word and couldn’t even buy Ramen (Ramen is a noodle soup and a famous Asian dish) in a supermarket because of the missing vocabularies. To be honest, I still don’t speak Korean. I can only say some useful words as “saranghae” (I love you) or “keopi syob” (coffee shop but sounds like “copy shop”).

Much preparation stuff

After I wrote motivation letters, collected thousands of important papers and provided all kinds of evidence, I finally got my accommodation letter. I decided to go to the EWHA Womans University in Seoul because it has the largest and the best offering for my field of study – Media Studies. At this point started my preparation time: I needed a visa, a place to stay, a flight, inoculations, health insurance, apply for a scholarship and other financial facilitation, I had to freeze the contract of my cell phone, needed a backpack… thousands of stuff.

The visa is relatively easy to get for Germans because the countries have a good relationship with each other (and it’s free). The inoculations are really expensive and there are a lot of recommendations about immunisation protection. If you don’t want to pay more money for inoculations than for the flight, it is impossible to get inject against everything. The flight is one other problem. My plans are to travel a few months after my exchange semester that’s why I don’t know yet when I will come back to Germany. However, it is cheaper to book a return flight right away. That’s why I would recommend searching for a flight with nice rebooking options. One other problem will be the luggage. I have to left some stuff in Korea while I’m travelling around. I also have just 23 kilogrammes of free luggage from Germany to South Korea. A friend gave me a piece of really nice advice. She loves backpacking journeys so she is kind of an expert. She always takes some old or washed out clothes to her travels or just outfits she doesn’t like anymore, so she can throw them away and has more space for clothes, souvenirs or just food. I believe it is a bit of really useful advice.

Immaturity in Seoul

Flats and rooms have – at least compared to Germany – really high rents. Some cheaper flats have a higher deposit of up to 5000 Euros respectively Dollars. This is one reason I really wanted to rent a room in a dormitory (and there you still can pay over 500 Euros/ Dollars). Unfortunately, curfews are a common thing in the dormitories of Seoul. I knew that South Korea is more strict with the separation of sexes. However, the curfew shocked me a little bit. I read that not all universities have stringent conditions. However, one article (here) from October 2003 from the English newspaper of the EWHA Womans university – the university where I will study – discourage me a little. But perhaps something changed meanwhile because the article is 13 years old by now. The curfew is just in some of the dormitories in the EHWA, however, in my opinion, the rules are very strict. The curfew is from midnight until five o’clock in the morning (12pm-5am). The article talks about black marks: Three for being tardy, five for staying out without permission – the students who collect ten marks have to leave the dormitory. If one wants to stay out, they need to sign up hours earlier. The process is even more complicated at the weekend. Then students need the permission of their parents.

I read that some reasons for the curfew are the responsibility to take care of the students. The curfew would help the students to go to bed early and stay healthy. And also to maintain their regular daily life.  Actually, to me, this sounds really unbelievable. Don’t get me wrong, however, in my opinion, at an age of 20 or older you should be able to organise your daily routine on your own. But perhaps some don’t want this and it is one of the differences between the cultures. I also read that some people like the rules and feel more organised and save with them. So it perhaps depends on the person which dormitory is the best for themselves.

By the way, the International House of EWHA hasn’t a curfew and I’m so glad I got a place there. Because in my opinion, dormitories are in general a perfect decision to live for an exchange semester. The dormitories are near the university on the campus, you meet really fast other students, you already got the most important furniture, the period and costs are complementary. Therefore, we will see how it will work for me. I am very pleased to get the chance to study in Seoul. For sure I will tell more about South Korea from time to time because the adventure has just begun.